JT’s Tree Tips
Just a reminder: we will be having our Silent Auction on the third Thursday this month.
There should be a lot of good material and other bonsai items that will enhance your bonsai experience. Be sure bring your checkbook and be generous as at least 20% goes to the club for programs and operating expenses. It should be a lot of fun.
PS. You can put in items as well!
Watering
Like last year, do remember to water up to two times a day if you see wilting on these hotter days. So far, this has been a brutal year again, heat wise. However, it’s not a good idea to water the foliage after dark, as a moist condition on the leaves can lead to mildew in the warm summer evenings and it can damage flowers and developing fruit (but early in the morning it is like dew). Give the sun and wind a chance to evaporate the surface moisture on the foliage. But, you can still water the soil. (I’m using a hose end filter Aqua Crest Garden Hose Filter that works quite well and doesn’t leave water spots and calcium deposits on my pots.) I got it on line.
Rotate your trees. Trees are heliotropic - they grow toward the sun. Get them looking good from every direction. The sun will be getting slowly lower in its trajectory through the sky, but now it can really make a difference.
Pinch, groom and keep working on your show trees so they will be ready when show time comes (October 1st). Anyone who has a supply of sun moss, the kind that has a silvery look to it should be saving it for the top dressing. If you have seen any sources for moss please pass it on. My sources are burned out.
Deciduous Tree Alert
Watch your wires. The explosive growth we have had since spring is expanding the branches rapidly and the wires may be cutting into the bark. If they are small, unwrap the wire rather than just cutting it off. If the wires are larger cut them off so as not to knock off freshly formed buds or shoots. Also, if in removing the tight wires, you cut into or expose any cambium tissue, dab it with a little tree seal so it won’t dry up and form a weak part of the branch. Otherwise when you later wire that branch with the weak part and try to bend it, it could break right there and you’ll be wondering why it happened.
Branches that you are developing from scratch must be wired and allowed to run and thicken to develop that first critical movement out from the trunk. Let it run ‘til January/February when you will cut back to start your next segment of the branch next year. On your refined trees for the show you will notice that the growth usually slows down around now with the high temperatures. If you have been pinching throughout the season you probably notice that it is not quite as quick to throw out vigorous new growth about now. Let the growth elongate a little. We will be having another growth spurt at the end of the month and we can cut back before the show and do some show wiring to dial the tree in.
Pests
Watch out for signs of fungus damage. Bi-weekly spray a fungicide in the evening like Cleary’s 3336™ wp or Daconil Ultrex or ZeroTol®.
Honeydew, a shiny and sticky substance on leaves, is a sign of sucking insects in the aphid family. They can’t digest all the sugar they get from the plant and deposit it on the foliage. Many time ants, which love the honeydew, will cultivate the aphids, whitefly and scales which produce it. You also might see a dirty substance called sooty mold, which grows on the honeydew. This readily washes off but the insects may not, so use Merit® granules or spray with Malathion® or Diazinon®, an oil like Ultra Fine® or Neep oil, or a systemic insecticide like Orthene® to control these problem insects. Scales are resistant because of their hard shells, but can be picked off easily. Apply any spray in the evening to minimize damage to your trees. Wash off any oils thoroughly!
Look for splotchy or speckled foliage that might indicate spider mites. Hold a piece of white paper under a branch and tap the foliage above it. Rub your finger over what ever is on the paper. If it smears (Yuk!) you probably have spider mites. Zap them with a jet spray of water to knock them off - do this every three days for a week. If you still see evidence (smears) spray every third day with Safer Soap. Lastly, try spraying a miticide on the underside of the foliage. And again a week later. Remember that Spider mites are arachnids not insects. The foliage will not immediately turn around and look healthy - the mites suck the chlorophyll out! New growth, however, should be regular color for the species you are treating.
Mildew and other fungi thrive in the warm moist crevices of the tree when we mist or over spray the foliage. Daconil® is a good broad-spectrum fungicide that can be very effective for this problem.
Summer Light
Trees that are growing in the ground really benefit by having full exposure to the sun. Those in nursery containers need a little shade, especially late in the day and those in bonsai pots need considerably more shade, and especially, surface protection. I have been using a top layer of shredded sphagnum moss/green moss to keep the surface soil moist, to promote surface roots and to insulate the root system from the sun.
Also, try using shade cloth (30 - 40%) overhead to filter the sun. Except for Bougainvillea, crepe myrtle, black pines, olives and peppers which seem to drink up the sun, a little shade will help your trees during this stressful time. This will help them stay green and show their best.
Don’t forget to fertilize your trees.
