JT’s Tree Tips
Going to the Cherry Blossom Festival this weekend (April 30-May 1). One of the most fun events of the year. Show bonsai, work on my trees, talk about bonsai. What’s not to love? Hope you all get/got a chance to see it up close and personal. It’s the same venue we will use for our show in October. Now back to our trees.
Spring Tasks
The days are longer and warmer, and the sun angle has been sneaking up on us, so we need to get into watering mode now, in earnest, as the growing season is in full swing. I am putting my shade cloth up next week.
May is a big time in bonsai. For all except the refined trees, we want to wire the first few inches of the new shoots once they have hardened off. We will cut back in the fall to this area. This is the beginning or continuation of ramification for the branches and will pay big dividends later on if we do the work now. Don’t cut back and pinch these shoots now. (The exception is if the longest shoots reach out past where you want, pinch the terminal shoot but not the inside shoots behind it. We need those to fill our branch with secondary and tertiary branches and twigs.) This will help to thicken and set the movement of the branch. Watch the wire so it doesn’t cut in. You may need to remove the wire and rewire with a larger size to keep the shape. If you didn’t cut back to where you need the branch to start, do so now and then when a new shoot appears and then hardens, wire it and follow the above procedure.
On trees that have the shape you want, let the shoot extend to four or five leaves and then cut back to two. Or when there are shoots extended, cut back beyond the beginning of the shoot and into the woody branch and wire any new shoots that pop from there into the new branch tips. Many times, we need to do this to get the taper back under control.
On developing trees that need thickening of trunk or branches, loosely wire the beginning of the branch and let the tips run wild. This should give you a section of branch that you can cut back later that will have shape and girth. However, watch out for the wire digging in. It may only take a matter of a few weeks while it sets.
Black Pine: Don’t worry about overly long candles. We will cut the candles from the end of this month through June depending on when the needles come about half an inch out and pull away from their sheaths. Feed up to the time you candle cut.
White Pine: Pinch off all but four sets of needles on succulent healthy candles and none on weaker ones. We will not be cutting the candles entirely off as in Black Pines.
Spruces, cedars, redwoods, and the like: Pinch off 2/3 of the succulent new shoot as it emerges with the fleshy parts of your fingertips (not the nails).
Azaleas: if you wish to enjoy the flowers, wait until they have finished about 3/4 of the blooms before stripping all the buds off and cutting back to two shoots and two leaves.
I have noticed that sometimes on the same branch, there are shoots with short internodes and some with longer internodes. Sometimes the shorter ones don’t extend out. If they don’t extend, don’t bother to pinch them. However, if they are elongating, do pinch them short. Shoots are elastic. The buds contain all of the new leaves when they first push out, but as they grow out into a shoot, the inter-nodal distances between the leaves stretch out like a rubber band. Before the internodes get too long, you can pinch them. This will stop the elongation process and start the hardening process of lignification (wood formation). After they have elongated, they form wood, can no longer be pinched, and must be cut with scissors.
This is a big time for pest and weed control so be prepared to do battle with everything from aphids to snails and dandelions to oxalis. Spray and bait for those critters. I would suggested something with Merit (imidacloprid) in it like Bayer’s 12 Month Tree and Shrub or Bayer’s Merit 0.5g granular insecticide. While pinching, examine your tree for any signs of stress, disease or insects. Remember to look on the underside of the leaves, as there are many sneaky pests that hide there. Mealy bug, spider mites, moths, and beetle – a small number of bugs can wreak havoc and ruin the foliage before you know it. Scale, aphids, beetles, etc. are best dealt with now before they burrow and suck your tree dry. When watering, spray from the bottom and all around the tree to wash as many as possible away. Pick off those that are stubborn. If you still see signs of their presence, spray with a solution of Malathion®. On healthy trees in pots fertilize continuously with organic fertilizers like Dr. Earth 5-5-5 with an intermittent shot of Dyna-Grow, Miracle-Gro, or some other water soluble, full spectrum fertilizer.
